Pet Turtle Costs In Australia: A Guide

If you're thinking of buying a pet turtle in Australia, there are a few things you should know. Firstly, penny turtles don't exist—this term is used to describe baby turtles, which will grow to be about the size of a dinner plate. You'll need a permit or licence to keep a native freshwater turtle, and you'll need to provide a spacious tank or pond for it to live in. Turtles also have specific dietary and lighting requirements, and their water quality must be strictly maintained.

Turtle species available as pets in Australia

There are 34 species of turtles native to Australia, 28 of which are freshwater turtles and six are sea turtles. Australia has strict laws regarding the ownership of its native reptiles, and it is completely illegal to import and own non-native turtles. Taking native turtles from the wild is also prohibited.

With the correct license, there are a few species of turtle that can be kept as pets in Australia.

Kreft's Turtle (Emydura kreftii)

The Kreft's Turtle is one of the four main species of Australian turtle that can be kept under a Native Animal Keeping Licence in Queensland.

Murray River Turtle (Emydura macquarii)

The Murray River Turtle is another of the four main species that can be kept under a Native Animal Keeping Licence in Queensland. It is also known as the Macquarie River Turtle, Southern River Turtle, Brisbane Short-Necked Turtle, Cooper Creek Turtle, Fraser Island Short-Necked Turtle, Krefft's Turtle, and the Macleay River Turtle, depending on the region.

Saw-Shelled Turtle (Elesya latisternum)

The Saw-Shelled Turtle is the third of the four main species that can be kept under a Native Animal Keeping Licence in Queensland. It is also known as the Common Sawshell Turtle and the Serrated Snapping Turtle.

Long-Necked Turtle (Chelodonia longicollis)

The Long-Necked Turtle is the final of the four main species that can be kept under a Native Animal Keeping Licence in Queensland. It is also known as the Eastern Long-Necked Turtle, the Common Snake-Necked Turtle, and the Eastern Snake-Necked Turtle.

Eastern Long Neck Turtle (Chelodina longicollis)

The Eastern Long Neck Turtle can be kept as a pet in New South Wales, but a reptile keeper's license is required.

Albino Murray River Turtle (Emydura macquarii)

The Albino Murray River Turtle is available as a pet in New South Wales, and a reptile keeper's license is required.

Broad-Shelled Snake-Necked Turtle (Chelodina expansa)

The Broad-Shelled Snake-Necked Turtle is a popular pet species, but due to its intensive care needs, it is best for experienced keepers.

Mary River Turtle (Elusor macrurus)

The Mary River Turtle is an endangered species that can sometimes be kept as a pet. It is also known as the Green-Haired Turtle or Penny Turtle.

Irwin's Turtle (Elseya irwini)

The Irwin's Turtle was discovered by Steve Irwin and his father, Bob, in 1990. It is native to the Burdekin River in Queensland and can be kept as a pet with the correct license.

Northern Snapping Turtle (Elseya dentata)

The Northern Snapping Turtle is native to the Northern Territory, Queensland, and Western Australia. It can be kept as a pet with the correct license.

White-Throated Snapping Turtle (Elseya albagula)

The White-Throated Snapping Turtle is native to Queensland and can be kept as a pet with the correct license.

Yellow-Bellied Snapping Turtle (Elseya flaviventralis)

The Yellow-Bellied Snapping Turtle is native to the Northern Territory and can be kept as a pet with the correct license.

Please note that this list may not be exhaustive, and it is essential to check the specific laws and regulations regarding turtle ownership in your state or territory.

Housing a pet turtle

Turtles require a lot of space, and no fish tank will be suitable for them in the long term. Native Australian turtles will eventually need to be upgraded to a 6-foot turtle-specific tank or an outdoor pond to accommodate their full size.

The most common indoor enclosure for Australian turtles is a simple aquarium setup. A turtle-specific tank should be at least 1.2 metres long, but bigger is always better. The enclosure should be filled to about two-thirds of its volume.

The water depth must be at least 2-3 times the length of the turtle's shell (or carapace) at a minimum. Substrate is not always necessary, and it is easier to keep the tank clean without it. However, if you prefer to have a substrate, larger river stones are a good option. Avoid small pebbles or sand as waste particles can cling to them and raise nitrogen levels.

Turtles need a basking area where they can be out of the water. This can be a floating turtle dock or a corner of the tank with enough substrate to rise above the water, usually under a basking lamp. The dock must be large enough for the turtle to fit its entire body, and both the UVB lamp and heat lamp should be positioned over it. Ensure there is no glass or plastic between the bulbs and the turtle's basking area, as these materials filter out UVB rays.

Turtles are timid creatures, so at least one-third of the tank should be densely planted to provide cover. Driftwood can also be added for additional hiding spots and enrichment. Be careful when placing items in the tank to ensure the turtle cannot become trapped or pinned underwater.

For baby turtles, a good starting tank size is 120x60x60cm, but this will need to be upgraded as they grow. Tanks smaller than 90cm in length are not suitable for turtles.

Outdoor housing is preferable for adult turtles, especially if they are a species found locally. They need access to sunshine and shade, and a shade cloth or bird netting cover can be used to keep out predators. Enclosures must be escape-proof, as turtles are excellent diggers and good climbers.

Lighting and Temperature

All Australian turtles require adequate UV light, which aids in Vitamin D3 production for calcium metabolism. UVB lighting may also help with natural behaviours such as foraging and feeding. In addition to artificial UVB lighting, turtles should be taken outside for natural sunlight 2-3 times a week for around 30 minutes.

Turtles need at least 12 hours of light daily, as they are diurnal (active during the day). It is important to remember that UV does not pass through glass or plastic, so all covering must be removed for the UV lamps to be effective.

The water temperature should be between 18-24°C, depending on the species. A thermostat and aquarium heater will be required to maintain this temperature. A thermometer above and within the water is necessary to monitor the temperature.

The basking area should have a temperature of 28-34°C, controlled by a separate thermostat and thermometer.

Turtle Behaviour

Turtles are solitary and only come together for mating. It is not recommended to house multiple turtles together, as one will often become dominant and steal food, causing chronic stress and illness in the other turtle. Turtles can also become aggressive towards each other and inflict serious bites.

Eastern long-neck turtles can be housed together if they are similar in size and the tank is large enough (180x60x60cm). Monitor their behaviour and ensure they are both receiving the same amount of food, as one may bully the other.

Turtle Licence

A Native Animal Keeping Licence is required to own a pet turtle in Australia.

Turtle feeding and diet

The diet of a turtle depends on its size, species, age, and habitat. Generally, turtles are omnivores, but some species are carnivorous. All pet turtles need commercially pelleted turtle food.

Animal Food Sources

Animal-based food sources can include processed pet foods like drained sardines, turtle pellets, and trout chow. You can also feed turtles cooked chicken, beef, and turkey. Live prey can include moths, crickets, shrimp, krill, feeder fish, and worms. Make sure any insects you feed to your turtle are sourced from a pet store or an undeveloped field, or raise them yourself to ensure quality and safety.

Plant Food Sources

Plant-based food sources should mostly be leafy greens like collards, dandelions, and mustard greens. Some vegetables, such as chives, parsley, and spinach, contain high levels of oxalates, which should be avoided. Fruits can include apples, cantaloupe, bananas, berries, and mangoes. You can also feed turtles non-toxic aquatic plants like water hyacinth, water lettuce, and duckweed.

How Often to Feed

Feed an adult turtle once every day or two, and a juvenile one to two times a day, though this can vary depending on the species. Adult turtles should be offered food every two to three days, while juveniles (less than 2 years) typically eat daily as they are growing.

How Much to Feed

As a general rule, especially for pellets and other non-living foods, only let your turtle eat as much as they can within about 20 minutes, and then remove any leftovers. The typical ratio of foods for an adult omnivorous turtle is more than 50% plant material and around 25% live animal protein. The typical ratio of foods for an adult carnivorous turtle is about 10–20% plant material, around 50% carnivorous turtle pellets, and around 30–40% live animal protein.

How to Serve the Food

Aquatic turtles only eat underwater, so you need to place their food in their water tank. If you have a land turtle, place its food on a flat, hard surface like a rock, or on grass. Many turtle owners also choose to chop a mix of vegetables to ensure their turtle isn't just eating one type and avoiding other nutritious plants they might not like as much.

Common Concerns

Overfeeding

Turtles can become obese, and overfeeding can cause them trouble when pulling their arms and legs into their shell. To avoid overfeeding, make sure your turtle lives in a big enough space to move freely.

Vitamin Deficiency

Turtles are prone to vitamin A deficiency if their diet isn’t right. To avoid this, choose plants like carrots, squash, bell peppers, and other red, orange, and yellow vegetables.

Hygiene

Turtles often defecate while they eat, so keeping their food in a separate container can help them avoid accidentally eating faeces. Clean any uneaten food out of their tank regularly to prevent the growth of unwanted bacteria and algae.

Turtle health and maintenance

Turtles are generally considered high-maintenance pets. Their dietary needs, temperature regulation, habitat cleanliness, and overall well-being require daily attention. Here are some essential tips for maintaining the health and well-being of your pet turtle:

Housing and Habitat Setup:

• Depending on the turtle's size, a tank can range from 20 gallons for a small species to a 120-gallon tank or an outdoor pond for larger species.
• The water depth must be at least two to three times the length of the turtle's shell, with a minimum of 10 gallons of water per inch of shell length.
• The enclosure should be at least three to four times longer and wider than the turtle's shell length.
• Provide a basking area with a temperature of 85-95°F (30-35°C) and a cooler area at around 75°F (24°C).
• Use a UVB bulb and a basking bulb to provide heat and UV light, which is essential for vitamin D3 synthesis and shell health.
• Maintain a daytime temperature of 72-77°F (22-25°C) and a nighttime temperature of 65-75°F (18-24°C).
• Use a water heater to regulate water temperature, and ensure it is placed where the turtle cannot tamper with it.
• Use a high-quality filtration system to remove waste and harmful toxins from the water.
• Perform regular water changes: change 25% of the water weekly or 50% every other week, and completely replace the water at least once a month.
• Use a water conditioner to remove chlorine and pollutants, and test the water quality regularly to ensure stable pH, ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite levels.
• Provide a dry, elevated basking spot with easy access from the water, and ensure the turtle cannot become trapped underwater by decorations.
• Use large river stones or fine river sand as a substrate, avoiding gravel, which turtles may ingest.
• Include aquatic plants, but ensure they are safe for turtles to consume.

Diet and Nutrition:

• A balanced diet for a turtle includes proteins, vegetables, fruits, and vitamins.
• Offer protein sources such as insects, earthworms, snails, or fish, constituting 20-25% of their diet.
• Vegetables like leafy greens, peppers, and squash should make up about 50% of their diet.
• Fruits should be a smaller portion, and supplements like calcium and vitamin D are essential.
• Feed young turtles daily and adults every other day, offering an amount they can consume within 15-20 minutes to prevent overfeeding.
• As a treat, offer occasional treats such as krill, insects, or small pieces of cooked chicken.
• Feed aquatic turtle pellets once a day, removing any uneaten food after 15 minutes.
• Feed turtles in warm water (upper 70s°F) to stimulate their appetite and aid digestion.

Handling and Hygiene:

• Limit handling and introduce it slowly, as turtles can develop trust issues and stress with excessive handling.
• Always wash your hands before and after handling your turtle and its habitat to prevent the spread of bacteria such as Salmonella.
• Keep the turtle's housing clean, providing fresh water and food regularly to prevent bacterial and fungal infections.
• Regularly clean and disinfect the tank and furnishings, rinsing thoroughly to remove any traces of cleaning agents.

Health and Veterinary Care:

• Turtles can develop respiratory infections, shell rot, parasitic infections, and metabolic bone disease.
• Be vigilant for early warning signs of illness, such as nasal or mouth discharge, lethargy, decreased appetite, or shell discolouration.
• Consult a veterinarian if you notice any changes in behaviour, appetite, or physical appearance, as turtles may not exhibit illness symptoms readily.
• Annual health checks are recommended, especially at a clinic experienced with reptiles.
• Keep a record of your turtle's weight and feeding habits, especially for juveniles.

Social Needs and Behaviour:

• Some turtle species, like Sliders and Painted Turtles, enjoy cohabiting, while others, like Snapping and Musk Turtles, are territorial and do better alone.
• Turtles may not be as affectionate or interactive as other pets, but they can recognize their caretakers and show signs of anticipation during mealtimes.
• Understand your turtle's behavioural cues, as they may exhibit stress through changes in appetite, lethargy, aggression, hiding, or physical symptoms like swollen eyes or abnormal faeces.
• Stress can be induced by inappropriate housing, diet, or social dynamics, as well as environmental changes such as temperature fluctuations or poor water quality.

Turtle handling and care

Turtles can make great pets, but they require careful handling and dedicated care. Here are some detailed guidelines on turtle handling and care:

Enclosure and Habitat Setup:

• The turtle's enclosure should be as large as possible, preferably a glass aquarium.
• The volume of the enclosure should be around 10 gallons (38 litres) of water per 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the turtle's shell length.
• For aquatic turtles, the water depth should be at least twice the turtle's length to allow for comfortable swimming.
• The enclosure should have a secure cover to prevent escape attempts by the turtle.
• The substrate at the bottom of the tank should be peat moss, soil, or large rocks/gravel. Avoid using small gravel or aquarium gravel as turtles might ingest it, leading to choking hazards.
• Create a basking area with a gentle slope on one side of the tank using smooth, wide river rocks or driftwood. This area should be dry and above the water level.
• Install a hiding box in the basking area to provide a cozy hiding spot for your turtle.
• Maintain a temperature gradient in the enclosure, with the dry area having a cool side (75-85° F/24-29° C) and a warm side/basking area (90-95° F/32-35° C).
• Use a reptile lamp or a heat lamp to maintain the desired temperature in the basking area, ideally between 85-90° F (29-32° C).
• Set up a UVB bulb and a basking bulb near the dry area to mimic sunlight and control temperature.
• Install an aquarium filter to keep the water clean. The filter should be suitable for a water volume twice that of your tank.
• Regularly test and maintain water quality, including pH levels, ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite levels.
• Change about 25% of the tank's water every week, and completely replace the water at least once a month.

Feeding and Diet:

• Feed your turtle a mix of commercial turtle pellets, fresh vegetables (dark, leafy greens are ideal), and invertebrates like crickets, mealworms, or feeder fish.
• Most turtle species should be fed every other day, with the amount of food being roughly what they can consume in 5 minutes.
• Aquatic turtles should be fed in the water, while box turtles can be fed using a food bowl.
• Supplement their diet with calcium by adding a pinch of calcium carbonate powder to their food every other feeding.

Handling and Hygiene:

• Turtles do not generally enjoy being handled frequently. Allow them to adjust to their new surroundings before attempting to handle them.
• Always wash your hands before and after handling your turtle to prevent the spread of potential diseases, including Salmonella.
• Remove droppings and leftover food from the tank daily to maintain good hygiene and water quality.
• Regularly inspect your turtle for any signs of illness, such as marks, blisters, or blemishes on the skin or shell, or discharges from the eyes, nose, or mouth.
• Consult an exotic pet veterinarian if you notice any concerning symptoms or behavioural changes.

By following these guidelines, you can provide a healthy and comfortable environment for your pet turtle.

Frequently asked questions