Treating Soft Shell In Aquatic Turtles: A Guide

Soft-shelled turtles are susceptible to various health issues, including shell rot, metabolic bone disease, vitamin D3 deficiency, and bacterial or fungal infections. Shell rot, a common problem, can result from bacterial or fungal infections and is characterised by symptoms such as red discolouration, slime, odour, and flaking of the shell. Metabolic bone disease, another frequent condition, is caused by dietary calcium deficiency, insufficient lighting, or a combination of both, leading to soft shells and potential fatality if untreated. Vitamin D3 deficiency, linked to inadequate UV lighting, also contributes to soft shells and can be fatal. Proper diet, UV lighting, and enclosure maintenance are crucial for preventing and treating these conditions.

Identify the cause of the soft shell

There are a few potential reasons why your aquatic turtle may have developed a soft shell. Here are some common causes:

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)

Metabolic Bone Disease, or MBD, is a serious condition that can affect turtles, especially young ones. It is caused by a lack of calcium in the bloodstream, which is necessary for their survival. If there is not enough calcium in the blood, the body will take it from the bones, weakening them over time. This can lead to soft-shell syndrome, where the bony structure that holds the keratin shields (outer shell) in place becomes compromised, and you can feel the damage from the outside. Insufficient dietary calcium is usually the major cause of MBD.

Lack of Vitamin D3

Vitamin D3 plays a crucial role in helping your turtle's body absorb and utilise calcium from its food. A deficiency in Vitamin D3 can lead to MBD, as the body is unable to effectively use the calcium it takes in.

Inadequate UVB Light Exposure

In the wild, turtles soak up UVB light by basking in sunlight. In captivity, they rely on special UVB lamps to provide this essential light. Over time, UVB bulbs may lose their effectiveness, even if they still appear bright. This can lead to a deficiency in UVB light, which is necessary for calcium absorption and bone health.

Shell Rot

Shell rot is caused by fungi or bacteria that enter your turtle's shell through cracks, scratches, or injuries. It often occurs due to an overly damp habitat, as these microorganisms thrive in moist environments. The initial signs may be subtle, such as a small discoloured patch or a slightly softer area on the shell. However, it can quickly progress and cause significant damage beneath the surface.

Poor Living Conditions

Poor water quality, incorrect temperatures, and a lack of clean and dry basking areas can all contribute to a soft shell in turtles. High levels of ammonia and nitrites in the water can stress a turtle's system, affecting shell integrity. Incorrect temperatures can slow their metabolism, impacting their ability to process nutrients essential for a strong shell. Additionally, a lack of dry basking areas can prevent turtles from fully drying off and absorbing UVB rays, leading to a soft shell.

Treat shell rot

Shell rot is a common problem in turtles and can be life-threatening if left untreated. It is an infection of a turtle's shell, which can be secondary to damage or poor husbandry.

Signs of Shell Rot

Pet turtles may have more subtle signs of shell rot, which can include a red tinge to areas of the shell, slime over the shell, a bad smell, flaking of the scutes and an easily damaged shell. Wild turtles generally present dehydrated and in poor body condition with a moss-covered malodorous shell.

Treatment for Shell Rot

The first step in treating shell rot is to debride (remove) the dead areas of the shell. This can be done by gently scraping at them with a scalpel. You can then soak the shell with a dilute betadine preparation, scrub the shell with a brush to remove any leftover flakes or debris, and finally rinse with fresh water. This process can be repeated every few days in severe cases.

It is recommended to "dry dock" turtles with shell rot, allowing them to be in water for only an hour a day to eat and toilet, and then keeping them in a soft towel with a small, shallow water bowl for the remainder of the day. It is also important to provide UV light for the turtle, either through direct sunlight or a UV lamp.

Antibiotic treatment is essential in severe cases of shell rot or if the shell has been fractured. Topical antibiotics such as silver sulfazadine cream applied daily can be enough for many cases. If systemic treatment is required, ceftazadine injections may be used.

Turtles with shell rot may not eat, so it is important to feed them an appropriate diet for their species to ensure they have enough energy to heal. If they refuse to eat, a feeding tube can be placed into the oesophagus to provide daily nutrition and hydration.

Prevention of Shell Rot

Shell rot is often caused by an unhygienic enclosure and dirty water. Therefore, it is important for turtle owners to clean their enclosures regularly and keep the water fresh for aquatic turtles.

Treat metabolic bone disease

Metabolic bone disease (MBD) is a common condition in aquatic turtles, and it can be harmful, and sometimes fatal, especially for young turtles. MBD is not a disease per se, but it does cause a lot of harm to turtles. It refers to all conditions that soften and deform a turtle's shell and bone structure. The most common type of MBD is secondary nutritional hyperparathyroidism, which is caused by an unbalanced diet and lack of access to UVA/UVB light.

How to Treat Metabolic Bone Disease in Aquatic Turtles:

• Diet: MBD is often caused by an improper diet. Turtles need access to food that is rich in calcium to prevent and treat MBD. Examples of calcium-rich foods include collard greens, cabbage, bok choy, alfalfa, spinach, okra, cantaloupe, squash, berries, sprouts, and kale. Vitamin D3 supplements can also help, as this vitamin aids in calcium absorption.
• Lighting: Proper lighting is essential for treating MBD. UVB lighting, in particular, is crucial for normal vitamin D production, which in turn aids in calcium metabolism. If your turtle is kept indoors, use UVB bulbs or a mercury vapour bulb to mimic natural conditions.
• Humidity: While low humidity is not the primary cause of MBD, it can worsen the condition. Keep humidity between 60% and 80% to prevent this.
• Veterinary Care: It is important to consult a veterinarian, especially one specialised in reptiles, to get an accurate diagnosis and treatment plan. They may recommend supplements, dietary changes, and adjustments to your turtle's environment.
• Supplements: Calcium supplementation is necessary, especially if dietary levels of calcium are insufficient. However, be careful not to overuse supplements, as this can lead to medical complications.
• Water Quality: Keep the water in your turtle's tank very clean to prevent bacterial and fungal infections, which can further compromise your turtle's health. Use efficient filtration systems such as canister or submersible filters.
• Basking Area: Provide an area for your turtle to bask under a heat lamp. This is necessary for your turtle's health, as it provides an area to dry off and helps regulate body temperature.
• Sunlight: Even if you have UV lights, give your turtle access to direct sunlight. Place their tank near a window that gets 2-4 hours of sunlight daily.
• Regular Check-ups: Regular check-ups with a veterinarian are vital, especially if your turtle shows clinical signs like shell rot or other issues.
• Prevention: MBD can often be prevented by providing your turtle with the right living conditions, including proper diet, UV light exposure, and humidity levels.

It is important to note that different types of MBD require different treatments, so a qualified veterinarian should be consulted for an accurate diagnosis and treatment plan.

Provide adequate UV lighting

Providing your aquatic turtle with adequate UV lighting is crucial for its health and survival. Here are some detailed instructions to help you provide the necessary UV lighting for your turtle:

Understand the Importance of UV Lighting:

• Turtles need UV lighting to stay healthy. It helps them produce vitamin D3, which is essential for calcium absorption and overall health.
• A lack of UVB light will lead to poor shell health and metabolic bone disease.
• UVA light, while not as critical as UVB, is believed to positively impact breeding and activity levels.

Choose the Right UV Lighting:

• You will need to purchase specialised reptile lamps that provide both UVA and UVB light.
• It is recommended to use a T5 fluorescent tube bulb for UVB light, as it has been shown to be the most effective way to ensure your turtle gets the right UVB exposure.
• For UVA light, you can use a basking or heat bulb that emits a yellow/white luminescence.

Set Up the Lighting Correctly:

• The lighting should be placed above the basking area, where your turtle can dry off and warm up.
• Ensure that the lighting fixtures can withstand high temperatures due to bulb heat.
• Adjust the height of the lamps to get the correct temperature at the basking surface.
• Use a thermometer to check that the basking area is at the right temperature.
• Consider using a timer to keep the lights on for 8-10 hours a day, mimicking the natural day-night cycle.

Maintain and Replace Bulbs:

• Replace bulbs as recommended by the manufacturer, usually every 6-9 months, to ensure they continue producing adequate UVB.
• Be cautious of potential hazards, such as bursting bulbs, and consider putting a screen between your lamp and the basking area to reduce the risk of injury to your turtle.

Provide Natural Sunlight:

• In addition to artificial UV lighting, aim to provide your turtle with 2-4 hours of direct sunlight daily.
• Place the turtle's tank near a window that receives ample sunlight.
• If you live in a warm climate, you can also provide your turtle with access to an outdoor enclosure to soak up natural sunlight.

Remember, it is crucial to provide your aquatic turtle with the right UV lighting to ensure its health and well-being. By following these instructions, you will be able to create an optimal environment for your pet.

Feed your turtle a healthy diet

Feeding your aquatic turtle a healthy, balanced, and diverse diet is critical to its health and well-being. An improper diet is the most common cause of health problems in captive aquatic turtles.

All turtles (but not all tortoises) are omnivores, meaning they eat both plants and meat. Aquatic turtles can survive on a diet of commercial turtle pellets and frozen or dried fish food. However, it is important to offer a variety of food to stimulate the turtle to eat and provide balanced nutrition.

Animal-based foods

The carnivorous portion of their diet should consist of high-grade commercial turtle or fish pellets, as well as a variety of invertebrates and vertebrates. Pelleted foods come in several sizes. Larger pellets tend to float well and are attractive to large turtles, whereas smaller pellets tend to sink quickly and are generally accepted by juveniles and small turtles. Some recommended brands are Flukers®, Mazuri®, and ZooMed®.

Aquatic turtles in the wild eat fish, and "feeder fish" may be purchased from pet stores or bait stores to feed pet turtles. Depending on the size of the turtle, fish such as goldfish, guppies, or minnows may be offered. Feeding live fish can provide your turtle with mental stimulation and exercise. Fish also can be a good source of calcium for turtles, if they eat the entire fish, bones and all. However, feeder fish have been known to carry parasites and bacteria that can infect turtles, so they should be given infrequently.

Smelt, mackerel, and other oily fish should be fed sparingly or avoided altogether, as their high-fat content may upset nutritional balance and lead to vitamin E deficiencies. A predominantly fish-based diet may also lead to a thiamine (vitamin B1) deficiency, so fish should be offered as only a small portion of aquatic turtles' diets.

Depending on the size of the turtle, amphibians such as tadpoles and frogs can be offered. Earthworms, snails, slugs, beetles, grasshoppers, moths, crickets, mealworms, wax worms, and other insects offer good nutritional content as well.

Raw meat, fish, or chicken from the grocery store is not recommended as a food source for turtles, as it does not contain a good balance of calcium and phosphorus. Regardless of the protein source, the carnivorous portion of a turtle's diet should compose no more than two-thirds of the diet of juveniles and about half of the diet of adults.

Plant-based foods

The plant portion of the diet should be vegetables, preferably ones that float and can be left in the water for the turtle to nibble throughout the day. Desirable vegetables include dark, leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, collard greens, mustard greens, carrot tops, endive, Swiss chard, kale, parsley, green beans, dandelion greens, turnip greens, and clover. Avoid iceberg or head lettuce, as it is composed mostly of water and contains very little nutritional value. Scoop any leftover food out of the tank daily to promote proper hygiene.

Many aquatic turtles are drawn to the color red, so shredded red bell pepper (rich in vitamin A) is also good to offer. Safe, non-toxic aquatic plants, such as water hyacinth, water lilies, Elodea, or duckweed, can be placed in the tank.

Always check the safety of plants before offering them to your turtle to ensure they are non-toxic.

Feeding frequency and supplements

Feeding frequency depends on the age and size of your turtle. Smaller or juvenile turtles, in good health, will eat heartily every day. As they get older, adult turtles may be offered a good-sized portion of food every two or three days.

Some veterinarians suggest adding a balanced, commercially available multivitamin once per week, with an additional source of calcium, such as a calcium block or cuttlebone, two to three times per week. Calcium deficiencies are relatively common in aquatic turtles.

Frequently asked questions