Feeding Habits Of Long-Neck Turtles: Do They Eat Yabbies?

Long-neck turtles are carnivorous and eat insects like crickets and moths, tadpoles, small freshwater fish, and yabbies, among other things. Yabbies are small freshwater crayfish, and turtles in the wild are known to eat them. In captivity, yabbies must be soaked in water to remove their spikes and shells before being fed to turtles.

What is a long-neck turtle's diet?

Long-neck turtles are carnivorous and will eat insects (e.g., crickets, moths, flies, and woodies), tadpoles, small freshwater fish (e.g., whitebait, guppies, and gudgeons), fresh and saltwater prawns and yabbies, snails and mussels, worms, and even carrion such as thawed frozen baby mice (pinkies). Any animals used for food should have been humanely killed. It is important to note that there are potential welfare and ethical considerations with the feeding of live insects to reptiles.

Long-neck turtles are "ambush feeders", striking with their mouths open and drawing in large quantities of water containing their prey. They can also eat dead fish, prawns, yabbies, and insects.

It is recommended that long-neck turtles are fed 2-3 times a week, with the amount of food being approximately the size of the turtle's head. It is important to not overfeed them, as this can lead to obesity.

It is also important to soak yabbies and other saltwater feed in water for at least an hour to remove salt and spikes/shells before feeding them to turtles.

How often should long-neck turtles be fed?

Long-neck turtles are predominantly carnivorous, and their diet should be varied. Their diet should include a mix of insects such as crickets, moths, flies, and worms. They can also eat fish, such as gudgeons and whitebait, as well as freshwater snails, prawns, and yabbies. It is important to ensure that any food taken from the water is soaked to leach out the salt, and that spikes and shells are removed.

The amount of food offered to an adult turtle should be approximately the size of their head, and they should be fed 1-2 times per week. Juvenile turtles should be fed every two days. It is important not to overfeed turtles, and any uneaten food should be removed after a couple of hours to minimise waste build-up in the water.

Turtles are opportunistic feeders and may instinctively gorge themselves on food in preparation for food shortages. Therefore, it is important to monitor their food intake and ensure that their diet is varied and appropriate for their age and size.

For turtles that are less than a year old, a mix of 50% protein and 50% vegetables is recommended. As they get older, the ratio should shift to 70% vegetables and 30% protein.

Good quality turtle pellets are recommended, and Mazuri is a well-regarded brand. It is also beneficial to provide a cuttlebone or calcium block as turtles need calcium for their health.

What is the best way to feed a long-neck turtle?

Long-neck turtles are carnivorous, with a diet made up of insects like crickets, moths, flies, and worms. They also eat fish, yabbies, and prawns. It is important to feed them in the water, as they are unable to swallow food when out of the water.

• Feed turtles 2-3 times a week. Reduce feeding frequency when the water temperature drops below 16°C.
• Aim to feed an amount similar to the size of the turtle's head. Overfeeding leads to obesity.
• Remove uneaten food after 20 minutes, as it can pollute the tank and cause health issues.
• Soak fish, prawns, and yabbies in water to remove salt, and remove their heads, spikes, and shells before feeding.
• Feed a varied diet, including live food like crickets, worms, and small fish.
• Provide a basking area with a lamp temperature of 28-34°C, where turtles can leave the water to dry their shells and stimulate natural behaviour.
• Ensure good water filtration to maintain water quality. Change one-quarter of the water every week and rinse and change the filter weekly.
• Maintain water temperature between 18-22°C for long-neck turtles, using a heater and thermostat.
• Provide adequate UV lighting to aid in Vitamin D3 production and support bone and shell growth.
• Supplement their diet with calcium and multivitamins suitable for turtles.
• Feed juveniles every day, and adults 3-4 times a week.
• Feed turtles in a separate container with water from their tank to prevent excess waste in the main enclosure.
• Do not feed raw meat, pet food, or red meat, as these can disrupt the balance of their diet and be harmful.
• Ensure the water is conditioned to remove chlorine, as it is toxic to turtles.
• Provide a dry land area where the turtle can be completely out of the water, with access to a basking light.
• Quarantine new turtles before adding them to an existing enclosure to prevent the spread of disease.
• Clean your hands thoroughly after handling your turtle.
• Consult a veterinarian if your turtle shows signs of illness, such as wheezing, scratching on tank objects, changes in shell colour, or skin sores.
• Monitor water quality by regularly testing pH, hardness, and ammonia levels.
• Choose a healthy turtle from a reputable dealer—a healthy turtle is active, alert, and swims horizontally.

What tank conditions are best for long-neck turtles?

Long-neck turtles require a lot of care and attention, and their survival is in the hands of their owners. Here are some tank conditions that are best for long-neck turtles:

Tank Size and Placement

The tank should be placed on a strong, stable surface that can withstand the weight of an aquarium full of water. Avoid direct sunlight as this promotes algae growth. The tank should be at least 1.2 metres long for adult turtles, and bigger is always better. For every 100 litres of water, the tank can accommodate 1 kilogram of turtles. A 6ft x 2ft x 2ft tank is sufficient for two or three turtles. If possible, keep the tank outdoors as it provides a more natural environment.

Water Conditions

The water temperature should be maintained between 22-28°C for long-neck turtles, and the pH should be around 7. The water hardness should be soft to moderately hard (around 150-280ppm). The water should be conditioned to remove chlorine, as it is toxic to turtles. Regularly monitor the pH, hardness, and ammonia levels in the water. Change one-quarter of the water each week and rinse and change the filter weekly.

Filtration and Lighting

Good water filtration is vital for turtle health. Use an external canister filter to maintain water quality, and perform 20-25% water changes weekly or bi-weekly. Additionally, provide UV lighting to aid in Vitamin D3 production and support bone and shell growth. The lights should be on for 12 hours a day, and natural UV light from the sun should be included in the turtle's weekly routine for around 30 minutes, 2-3 times a week.

Substrate and Decorations

Gravel is a suitable substrate for the tank, and larger river stones are an attractive option. Avoid small pebbles or sand as waste particles can cling to them, raising nitrogen levels. Driftwood can be included for a natural look and behavioural enrichment. Provide a basking area with a temperature of 28-34°C, large enough for the turtle's entire body, with a sloping ramp for easy access.

Diet and Feeding

Long-neck turtles are carnivorous, and their diet includes fish, yabbies, worms, crickets, and frozen turtle foods. Feed them 2-3 times a week, and reduce the frequency when the water temperature drops below 16°C. Aim to feed an amount similar to the size of the turtle's head. Remove uneaten food after 20 minutes to maintain water quality.

Health and Maintenance

Keep the tank clean and maintain good hygiene practices. Wash your hands thoroughly after handling the turtle. Quarantine new turtles before introducing them to the tank. Consult a veterinarian if the turtle shows any signs of illness, such as wheezing, scratching on tank objects, changes in shell colour, or skin issues.

Additional Considerations

• Do not keep multiple turtles together as they can become aggressive and cause chronic stress.
• Do not use an enclosed hood on the tank as it can cause respiratory infections and promote the growth of dangerous mould.
• Turtles require a dry area to bask and should not remain in the water at all times.
• Regularly test water parameters such as pH, nitrate, and general hardness to ensure optimal conditions.
• Provide supplements like multivitamins and calcium to support the turtle's health.
• Be mindful of licensing laws in your state before purchasing a turtle.

What are the signs of illness in long-neck turtles?

Long-neck turtles can make fascinating pets, but it's important to be vigilant about their health. Here are some signs to watch out for that may indicate illness in your long-neck turtle:

Respiratory Problems

Respiratory infections are common in turtles and are often a result of vitamin A deficiency or bacterial infections. Keep an eye out for bubbles in the mouth, nose, and eyes, nasal discharge, lethargy, loss of appetite, wheezing, and extended neck while breathing. If the infection spreads to the lungs, your turtle may develop pneumonia, causing it to tilt to one side while swimming due to the increased weight of the diseased lung tissue.

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)

MBD is a metabolic imbalance caused by insufficient calcium and phosphorus in the diet, inadequate UV light, or a combination of both. A misshapen shell or deformed bones in the legs are tell-tale signs of MBD. Turtles with this condition often grow slowly and may never reach their full adult size.

Vitamin A Deficiency

A diet lacking in vitamin A can lead to changes in the skin and mucus-producing glands and membranes in the mouth, eyes, kidneys, and upper respiratory tract. Symptoms include lack of appetite, lethargy, swelling of the eyelids, ear abscesses, kidney failure, and chronic respiratory infections.

Abscesses

Abscesses are infected, pus-filled swellings that can develop anywhere on the body. They often appear as large swellings on the sides of the head or roof of the mouth and are associated with vitamin A deficiency. Abscesses in the oral cavity may cause thick nasal discharge and mucus around the mouth.

Shell Infections and Fractures

Shell infections, also known as shell rot, are often caused by bacteria, fungi, or parasites. They can be secondary to trauma, burns, or bites. These infections can penetrate deep into the shell, causing ulcers, pitting, or bone damage underneath. Shell fractures can result from blunt force trauma and should be addressed promptly to prevent infection and permanent damage to blood supply.

Gastrointestinal Issues

Gastrointestinal parasites, such as roundworms, are common in turtles and may cause diarrhea or weight loss. In some cases, parasitic infections may not show any clinical signs, but they can be detected through routine fecal examinations.

Salmonella Infection

Turtles can carry Salmonella bacteria asymptomatically, but it poses a risk of transmission to humans, especially children, the elderly, and immunocompromised individuals. Proper hygiene, including washing hands after handling turtles and cleaning their tanks regularly, is essential to minimize the risk of contracting salmonellosis.

Cystic Calculi

Also known as bladder stones, cystic calculi form when minerals from the diet crystallize in the urine and then fuse together. This condition may result in blood in the droppings, straining during bowel movements, and abdominal discomfort. It is typically caused by improper nutrition and dehydration.

Tissue Prolapse

A prolapse occurs when an organ, such as the intestine, cloaca, urinary bladder, or penis, protrudes from the vent. In male turtles, the penis may periodically prolapse during stressful or sexual situations, but it should revert into the shell on its own. If it remains outside the shell, it can become traumatized, swollen, or bitten by another turtle, leading to a serious problem.

Irregular Shell Growth

Malnutrition or metabolic bone disease can result in irregular shell growth. The shell may appear soft, bumpy, or asymmetrical. This could be due to an imbalanced diet, excessive protein and fat, or insufficient ultraviolet light.

Skin and Shell Sloughing

While normal skin shedding occurs periodically, full-thickness shedding that leaves raw or bleeding areas may indicate a bacterial or fungal infection, vitamin A deficiency, burn, or trauma.

Hibernation

While hibernation is normal for wild turtles, captive turtles should be prevented from hibernating as it can be stressful for their bodies, and sub-clinical illnesses may develop during this time. Maintaining a photoperiod of 12-14 hours and warm environmental conditions can help prevent hibernation.

Dystocia (Egg Binding)

Dystocia is a life-threatening condition where a female turtle is unable to pass her eggs. It is often associated with improper environmental temperature, light cycles, inadequate nest sites, or malnutrition. A gravid turtle with dystocia will typically stop eating and become lethargic and unresponsive.

If you notice any of these signs, it is important to consult a veterinarian experienced with reptiles as soon as possible. Early intervention can make a significant difference in the health and well-being of your long-neck turtle.

Frequently asked questions