Viquarium For Box Turtles: A Good Habitat Option?

Box turtles are unique land-dwelling reptiles with a high, dome-shaped shell. They are colourful reptiles and are not suitable for aquariums due to their mostly terrestrial nature. They can swim and even submerge themselves, but they should be kept in large outdoor enclosures or large indoor terrariums. If kept indoors, the temperature must be managed, and they require UV lighting. They are fascinating and endearing but require different care from other aquatic pets.

Viquarium size requirements for box turtles

The size of your box turtle's viquarium depends on whether it is an indoor or outdoor enclosure. For an outdoor enclosure, the minimum size is 4 feet in length and 4 feet in width. For an indoor habitat, the minimum size should be 3 feet in length and 1 foot in width.

For indoor enclosures, you should add another foot in length and half a foot in width for every extra turtle inside.

If you opt for an indoor enclosure, try to make it resemble your box turtle's natural environment. This will go a long way in reducing environmental stress.

Viquarium temperature and lighting for box turtles

Box turtles cannot regulate their body temperature and rely on their environment to heat up or cool off. Therefore, it is crucial to provide the right temperature, humidity levels, UVA and UVB lighting for their health.

Temperature

The ideal temperature for a box turtle depends on its species. For example, the daytime temperature for Eastern box turtles should be 70-75°F (21-24°C), with a basking spot of 85-88°F (29-31°C) and a nighttime temperature of 65-70°F (18-21°C). In contrast, Western Ornate and Florida box turtles require a higher daytime temperature of 70-90°F (21-32°C) and a lower nighttime temperature of 65-75°F (18-24°C).

To create a temperature gradient, set up a heat lamp at one end of the habitat. The temperature directly below the lamp and at the other end of the habitat should fall within the recommended ranges. The water source and bedding should be on the cool side.

Lighting

Box turtles need UVA and UVB rays to synthesise vitamin D3, which helps them absorb calcium for shell production and bone growth. UVA rays increase their overall activity level, appetite and desire for mating. UVB rays are not visible to box turtles but are essential for their health.

UVA and UVB rays cannot penetrate glass, so if your box turtle is kept indoors, you will need to provide it with a lamp that emits both types of rays. The lamp should be placed on the same side as the heat source, as this is where your box turtle will spend a lot of its time.

ZooMed ReptiSun bulbs are a popular option, offering bulbs with different intensities and wattages. The ideal bulb for your box turtle depends on how far the lamp will be from the animal.

Viquarium feeding and diet for box turtles

The diet of box turtles should be about 50% plant-based material and 50% animal-based material. Young, growing box turtles tend to be primarily carnivores, while adults tend to be herbivores.

Plant-Based Foods

Most plant material fed to box turtles should be vegetables and flowers (80%-90%), and only 10%-20% should be fruit. Dark, leafy greens should make up the largest part of the diet, and yellow, red, and orange vegetables can also be included.

Acceptable vegetables include collard greens, beet greens, mustard greens, broccoli, turnip greens, alfalfa hay, bok choy, kale, parsley, Swiss chard, watercress, clover, red or green cabbage, savoury, cilantro, kohlrabi, bell peppers, green beans, escarole, and dandelion. A smaller percentage of the diet can include cactus, various squash, sprouts, cooked sweet potato, parsnips, okra, cucumber, asparagus, mushrooms, carrots, peas, and corn.

Swiss chard, spinach, and beet greens should be fed sparingly, as they contain oxalates that can bind to calcium and other trace minerals, preventing these nutrients' absorption in the turtle's intestinal tract. Be cautious when feeding cabbage, kale, or mustard greens, as these vegetables contain goitrogens, which may lead to hypothyroidism.

If you offer fruit, the amount should be less than 10% of the daily food intake. Fruits to offer include apples, pears, bananas (with skin), mango, grapes, star fruit, raisins, peaches, tomato, guava, kiwis, and melons. Fruits that are particularly healthy include figs (which are high in calcium), apricots, dates, raspberries, and strawberries. As a treat, flowers may also be offered, such as geraniums, carnations, dandelions, hibiscus, nasturtiums, and roses.

Vegetables and fruit can be offered cooked or raw, although raw tends to be more nutritious, as cooking can destroy many nutrients.

Animal-Based Foods

Depending on the age, breed, and health of your box turtle, your veterinarian may or may not recommend feeding animal-based protein sources. When offered, some appropriate animal-based protein sources include grasshoppers, crickets, mealworms, wax worms, silkworms, moths, slugs, earthworms, and hard-boiled eggs.

Commercially available reptile pellets are an excellent protein source. Live prey, such as crickets and worms, should either be raised inside by the owner or purchased from a pet store, bait store, or reptile breeder. It is not generally recommended to collect insects from outside to feed pet turtles, as fertilizers and insecticides can be toxic to turtles.

Commercial Diets

There are commercial box turtle diets available that are marketed as nutritionally complete, but you should also supplement them with a variety of fresh foods. A vet who specializes in turtles can help you find the right one.

Supplements

Like most reptiles, turtles require more dietary calcium than phosphorus. Most veterinarians recommend lightly sprinkling vegetable matter with a calcium powder two to three times per week. In addition, a light sprinkling of a multivitamin-mineral powder made for reptiles is also recommended weekly.

A common problem seen in pet box turtles is over-supplementation with vitamins (especially vitamin D3) and minerals. Check with your veterinarian about the need to supplement your pet's diet with any kind of vitamin or mineral.

Viquarium cleaning and maintenance for box turtles

Transplant the turtle

Before you start cleaning, gently pick up the turtle and place it in a bucket or bowl with enough water for it to swim. Make sure the water is deep enough for the turtle to turn around. You can also add some peat or rocks to the container for the turtle to climb on. Remember to only use this container for temporarily housing the turtle.

Remove electrical devices and large objects

Unplug and remove electrical devices such as the heater, light fixtures, and filters. Place them in a separate container to be cleaned later. Remember to turn them off first. Next, remove large objects such as basking platforms, rocks, plants, and other decorations. Place these in another separate container.

Move the tank to a cleaning area

Depending on the size of the tank, you may need help moving it to the cleaning area. It is recommended to have someone assist you in carrying the tank. Empty most of the water from the tank to make it lighter and easier to move.

Rinse the substrate

If you use substrates such as rocks, rinse them before cleaning the tank. Use a bathtub faucet or a hose to fill the tank about a quarter full with water, then empty and repeat this process until the water in the tank is clear.

Prepare a cleaning solution

You can use a bleach solution or distilled white vinegar to clean the tank. For bleach, use a 5% chlorine bleach solution (approximately 30 parts water to 1 part bleach). For vinegar, use a quarter cup of vinegar for every gallon of water. If cleaning near vegetation, use a plant-friendly cleaner to avoid damaging plants.

Scrub the tank and its contents

Use a clean rag or sponge to scrub the entire tank with the cleaning solution, paying special attention to corners and spaces where panels come together as debris tends to build up. Tilt the tank to one side to scrub the bottom and the substrates.

Clean the devices and decorations

Disassemble the filter and clean each component separately, following the instructional manual. Also, scrub and clean the outside of the heater, as well as any decorations, rocks, wood, and plastic plants. Rinse everything together and leave them to dry.

Rinse the tank

Thoroughly rinse the tank with clean potable water to remove any residue from the cleaning solution and leftover debris. Ensure there is no scent of bleach or vinegar remaining. Dry the outside of the tank with a clean towel.

Return the tank to its display area

Carry the empty tank back to its display area, refill it with water, and reinstall all objects and electrical devices, trying to maintain the same setup as before.

Dechlorinate the water

Tap water may contain chlorine, which can be harmful to turtles. Use an animal-safe water dechlorinator to neutralize any chlorine residue.

Check water temperature and chemical levels

The water temperature should be between 72 to 75°F for most turtles. Use a thermometer to ensure the temperature is correct. Additionally, use testing kits to measure pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels, and make adjustments as needed to ensure they are within safe ranges.

Add non-iodized salt (optional)

Adding a small amount of non-iodized salt to the water can help regulate the presence of harmful bacteria. However, ensure your turtle thrives in brackish water before doing this.

Return the turtle to its enclosure

After everything is cleaned and returned to the tank, gently place the turtle back in its favorite resting spot.

Maintain water quality between cleanings

• Use a powerful filter to maintain water cleanliness.
• Remove leftover food after each feeding to keep the aquarium cleaner for longer.
• Monitor chemical levels regularly with a water test kit.
• Change a quarter to a third of the water in the aquarium every week and correct any imbalances.
• Clean algae off the turtle tank regularly, but don't stress too much over small amounts as they are good for turtles.

Viquarium safety considerations for box turtles

Viquariums, or aquariums with a turtle habitat, can be a great way to house your box turtle, but there are some important safety considerations to keep in mind. Here are some detailed, direct, and instructive guidelines to ensure the well-being of your box turtle in a viquarium setup:

Habitat Requirements:

• Space: Box turtles need ample space to roam and explore. The general rule of thumb is to provide at at least three square feet of floor space for every eight inches of your turtle's length. For viquariums, ensure the water section doesn't limit their roaming area, and provide enough land for them to bask and rest.
• Basking Area: A basking platform or floating log is essential for your box turtle to crawl out and warm up. Make sure it's sturdy, secure, and easily accessible for your turtle.
• Water Depth: Box turtles need a swimming area, but ensure the water depth is suitable. They should be able to stick their head out of the water. A good guideline is to maintain a water depth of at least twice their length.
• Temperature: Box turtles require different temperature zones. The basking area should be between 85°F and 90°F, while the water section should be about 10 degrees cooler. Use thermometers to monitor both air and water temperatures.
• Filtration: Turtles are messy eaters and produce a lot of waste. Ensure your viquarium has an efficient filtration system, such as a canister filter, to maintain water cleanliness and quality. Regular water changes are also necessary, depending on the size of the enclosure and the number of turtles.
• Lighting: Provide a UV source, specifically UVB lighting, for your box turtle. This is crucial for their health, as it helps them synthesize vitamin D3 and absorb calcium for a healthy skeletal system. Use a timer to provide a consistent photoperiod of about 10-12 hours of UV exposure daily.

Turtle Care:

• Diet: Offer a varied and well-balanced diet to your box turtle. Commercial turtle pellets or sticks can be the staple, but also include plant matter and live prey in their diet. Remember to provide food that meets their nutritional needs as they mature.
• Handling: Turtles generally don't enjoy being handled and prefer to be left alone. They are not cuddly pets and don't require constant attention, which can be advantageous for owners.
• Longevity: Box turtles can live for over 50 years, so owning one is a long-term commitment. Be prepared for this responsibility, and never release your turtle into the wild if you can no longer care for it.
• Compatibility: Turtles are territorial and may not get along with other creatures in the viquarium. Be cautious when housing them with fish, as they are known to eat fish. If you do introduce fish, do so gradually and monitor their interactions closely.

In summary, by following these safety considerations and providing a suitable habitat and care, you can create a healthy and stimulating environment for your box turtle in a viquarium setup.

Frequently asked questions