Turtles As Pets: Are They A Good Choice In Australia?

Turtles are one of the most popular pets in Australia, but they require a lot of care and attention. Before bringing one home, it's important to understand their needs and the responsibilities that come with owning one. In this discussion, we will explore the topic of keeping turtles as pets in Australia, covering aspects such as their care requirements, habitat needs, diet, health considerations, and the long-term commitment involved in owning these fascinating creatures.

Turtle species and their specific needs

There are over 350 species of turtles, and while some make good pets, it is important to understand their specific needs before bringing one into your home.

Kreft's Turtle (Emydura kreftii)

Native to Australia, this species requires a lot of space and cannot be kept in a fish tank. A 6-foot turtle-specific tank or an outdoor pond is necessary to house them at their full size. They require a source of UV heat and light, and their water needs regular maintenance and heating. Kreft's Turtles are quite timid and require dense vegetation to provide cover. A turtle dock is essential to provide a basking area, and the water depth must be at least 2-3 times the length of the shell.

Murray River Turtle (Emydura macquarii)

Also native to Australia, the Murray River Turtle shares similar requirements to the Kreft's Turtle. A large enclosure with access to both land and water is necessary. A basking heat lamp and a thermostat to regulate the heat source are also required.

Saw-shelled Turtle (Elesya latisternum)

This species of turtle is native to Australia and requires a large enclosure with both land and water access. They need a basking area with a heat lamp, as well as UV lighting. The water temperature should be maintained between 18-22°C, and regular water testing is essential to monitor ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, and hardness levels.

Long-necked Turtle (Chelodonia longicollis)

The Long-necked Turtle is native to Australia and can grow to about the size of a dinner plate. They require a large enclosure with a densely planted area to provide cover. A turtle dock and a basking heat lamp are essential, with the temperature of the basking zone maintained between 30-34°C.

Red-eared Slider (Trachemys scripta elegans)

The Red-eared Slider is one of the most popular aquatic turtle species and tends to be friendlier and more sociable than other species. They are active during the day and require a large tank with adequate areas for basking, as well as UV lighting and a good water filtration system. They can be housed indoors or outdoors but need warmer temperatures if kept outside.

African Sideneck Turtle (Pelomedusa subrufa)

The African Sideneck Turtle has a unique appearance with a long neck that cannot be fully retracted into its shell. They require very clean water, which should be changed weekly, and a varied diet to prevent Vitamin A and D3 deficiencies. A large tank, preferably at least 75 gallons, is necessary, along with a basking platform and UV lights.

Eastern Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina carolina)

The Eastern Box Turtle needs a lot of space and a humid environment, with a shallow pool of water and a moist substrate. They can be kept indoors or outdoors but require a UVB basking light if housed indoors. A thermostat is necessary to maintain a constant temperature and prevent respiratory infections.

Western Painted Turtle (Chrysemys picta bellii)

The Western Painted Turtle is distinctive and attractive, with detailed shell markings. It requires a large tank or outdoor space, a good water filtration system, and basking lights to maintain a warm temperature. They are shy and do not enjoy frequent handling.

Mississippi Map Turtle (Graptemys pseudogeographica kohni)

The Mississippi Map Turtle has a distinctive dorsal fin running along its shell and is sometimes called the "sawback." They require a smaller enclosure than some other aquatic turtles and can be kept indoors or outdoors. Their lifespan is shorter than average, typically between 15-25 years.

Common Musk Turtle (Sternotherus Odoratus)

Also known as the "stinkpot," the Common Musk Turtle is one of the more popular aquatic turtle species. They are small and have less intensive care requirements. They are not strong swimmers, so the water in their enclosure should not be too deep, and they should have plenty of areas to get out and bask under UVB lighting.

Spotted Turtle (Clemmys Guttata)

The Spotted Turtle is one of the smallest species of turtle allowed to be kept in captivity and can live indoors or outdoors. They require warm basking platforms and ornaments that provide opportunities to rest. A varied diet, including meat, leafy greens, and fruit, is important for their health.

Yellow-bellied Slider (Trachemys scripta scripta)

The Yellow-bellied Slider is another popular aquatic turtle species that tends to be relatively hardy. They require a large tank or outdoor enclosure and get stressed by handling, so it is best to keep interactions to a minimum.

Reeve's Turtle (Mauremys reevesii)

The Reeve's Turtle is one of the most sociable turtles and can even enjoy being stroked with the right handling and interaction. Their care requirements are similar to the Red-eared Slider, but they are smaller and require a smaller enclosure.

Wood Turtle (Glyptemys insculpta)

The Wood Turtle is known for being friendly and hardy. They require a decent-sized enclosure, preferably outdoors, as they are not aquatic and could drown in water that is too deep. A diet high in protein, including insects, slugs, earthworms, and snails, is important for their health.

Russian Tortoise (Agrionemys horsfieldii or Testudo horsfieldii)

Also known as the Horsfield's Tortoise, the Russian Tortoise can be housed indoors or outdoors but requires time outdoors to burrow. Their enclosure should have a sand/soil substrate, UVA/UVB light, and a basking spot, and it needs to be large enough to give your pet plenty of room. These tortoises also hibernate.

Red-footed Tortoise (Geochelone carbonaria)

The Red-footed Tortoise is easy to care for and not considered high-maintenance. They are docile but shy and do not like being handled. A large, escape-proof outdoor enclosure is necessary, as they like to burrow. When kept indoors, a very large enclosure is required.

Hermann's Tortoise (Testudo hermanni)

The Hermann's Tortoise does not get too large and is docile, rarely biting. It is best suited for outdoor housing in a climate similar to the Mediterranean. A

Setting up a suitable habitat

Enclosure Size and Type:

Turtles require a spacious enclosure to accommodate their need for movement and swimming. The minimum recommended size for an adult turtle enclosure is 1.2 metres long, but bigger is always better. Native Australian turtles will eventually require an upgrade to a 6-foot turtle-specific tank or an outdoor pond. Glass aquariums are a popular choice for enclosures as they facilitate observation and cleaning. Plastic enclosures are lightweight and easy to move but ensure that the material you choose is strong and durable. The enclosure should be escape-proof as turtles are adept escape artists.

Water Parameters:

The water section of the enclosure should be deep enough for the turtle to roll over completely and feed. The water depth should be at least 2-3 times the length of the turtle's shell. The water temperature should be maintained between 18-22°C for long-necked species and 20-24°C for short-necked species, with the ideal temperature being 22°C. A water heater may be necessary during winter, and a chiller may be required in summer. An external canister filter is essential for maintaining water quality by removing nitrogenous waste. Regular water changes of 20-25% are necessary on a weekly or bi-weekly basis.

Basking Area:

All turtles need a basking area where they can haul out of the water, as they do not stay in the water all the time. The basking area should be large enough for the turtle to fit its entire body and have a sloping ramp for easy access. The temperature of the basking area should be maintained between 28-34°C using a basking lamp or a warm incandescent lamp.

Lighting:

Turtles require access to adequate UV light, including UVA and UVB sources, to aid in Vitamin D3 production and calcium absorption for a strong shell. Special reptile or fluorescent lights with a UVB rating of at least 5 are recommended. The lights should be on for about 12 hours a day or follow the natural cycle of the region where the species originates. Natural sunlight is beneficial and should be included in your weekly husbandry practice for around 30 minutes, 2-3 times a week.

Substrate and Decorations:

Substrate is not always necessary, and it is easier to keep the tank clean without it. However, if desired, large river stones or fine river sand can be used. Avoid small gravel or sand as waste particles can cling to them, raising nitrogen levels. You can decorate the enclosure with gravel, wood, rocks, and ornaments. Suitable water plants are recommended as they can serve as a food source and provide cover for timid turtles.

Water Quality and Maintenance:

Water quality is critical for turtles. Regular water changes and tests are necessary to maintain a healthy habitat. The pH level should be maintained between 7.2 and 8.0, and the water hardness should be 140-210ppm. Filtration and water conditioners are important to remove chlorine and maintain water quality. Weekly testing for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels is recommended.

Providing a balanced diet

Commercial Turtle Food

Commercial turtle pellets or blocks are an important part of a turtle's diet. These commercially available food items provide a balanced mix of nutrients and should form the base of most pet turtles' diets. It is beneficial to rotate between different brands of pellets to determine which ones your turtle likes best.

Animal Protein

Animal protein is an essential component of a turtle's diet, especially for aquatic turtles and younger turtles. Live or frozen animal protein sources such as insects, fish, worms, and crickets can be offered. It is important to ensure that any dead fish are removed from the aquarium immediately to maintain water quality. Some turtle species, like the spiny soft-shell turtle, are carnivorous and require a higher percentage of animal protein in their diet.

Vegetables and Fruits

Offering a wide variety of dark, leafy greens, such as collard greens, dandelion greens, and carrots, is crucial for an adult omnivorous turtle's diet. Aquatic plants sold specifically for aquatic pets can also be included. It is important to provide a diverse range of vegetables to prevent nutritional deficiencies and ensure your turtle gets all the necessary nutrients. Fruits can be given as occasional treats, but they should be cut or shredded to prevent choking.

Supplements

Nutritional supplements are necessary to meet your turtle's nutritional needs. Calcium supplements, such as calgrit (turtle grit) or cuttlebone, are important for shell and bone health. Vitamin D3 supplements aid in calcium absorption and can be included in calcium supplements. Multivitamins can also be given sparingly, about once a week, to prevent over-supplementation.

Feeding Practices

Proper feeding practices are crucial for your turtle's health. Young turtles should be fed daily or every other day to support their rapid growth. Adult turtles can be fed every 2-3 days, depending on the species. It is recommended to offer an amount of food that your turtle can consume in 15-20 minutes. Avoid overfeeding, as obesity can lead to health issues. Aquatic turtles should be fed in the water, while land turtles can be fed on a flat surface or in a shallow dish.

Foods to Avoid

Some foods can be harmful to turtles and should be avoided. These include toxic plants like azaleas, lilies, and ivy, human processed foods, chocolate, and dairy products. High oxalate vegetables like spinach and beet greens can interfere with calcium absorption, so their consumption should be limited. Raw chicken or beef should also be avoided due to the risk of foodborne diseases.

Common health issues

Turtles are good at hiding the initial signs and symptoms of illnesses and diseases. This is an instinctual behaviour that they have developed in the wild to avoid being targeted by predators. Therefore, it can be challenging to recognise when your pet turtle is unwell.

Some of the most common health issues in turtles are:

• Respiratory infections: These are often caused by bacteria and can be secondary to vitamin A deficiency. Turtles with respiratory infections may have excess mucus in their mouths, noses, and eyes, nasal discharge, lethargy, loss of appetite, wheezing, and open-mouth breathing or gasping.
• Vitamin A deficiency: This occurs when turtles are fed an inappropriate diet, such as an all-meat diet, iceberg lettuce, or a poor-quality commercial diet. Symptoms include lethargy, lack of appetite, swollen eyelids (often with pus-like discharge), swollen ears (due to an ear abscess), respiratory infections, and kidney failure.
• Abscesses: These are infected, pus-filled swellings that can appear anywhere on the skin or inside the body. They often develop in the ears or oral cavity and are related to vitamin A deficiency.
• Shell infections (shell rot): These infections are often caused by bacteria, fungi, or parasites and can be secondary to trauma, burns, or bites. They can penetrate deep into the layers of the shell, causing ulcers, pitting, or extension into the bone.
• Metabolic bone disease: This is an imbalance of calcium and phosphorus due to an improper diet or lack of adequate ultraviolet (UV) light. Signs include a misshapen shell or deformed bones in the legs. Turtles with MBD grow slowly and often do not reach full adult size.
• Gastrointestinal parasites: Roundworms and protozoa are common in pet turtles and can cause weight loss or diarrhoea in severe cases.
• Salmonella: Turtles can carry the Salmonella bacteria on their bodies, even when they appear healthy and clean. This can be transmitted to humans through direct contact or by touching surfaces contaminated by the turtle, such as countertops or water containers. Young children and individuals with weakened immune systems are particularly vulnerable to Salmonella infections.

To prevent health issues in pet turtles, it is important to maintain a clean and appropriate habitat, provide a balanced diet, and monitor your turtle's behaviour and appearance for any signs of illness. Regular check-ups with a veterinarian experienced in reptile care are also recommended.

Legal requirements

In Australia, all native reptiles are protected by law and cannot be taken from the wild and kept as pets. It is illegal to keep exotic (non-Australian) reptiles, such as the Red-Eared Slider (an American turtle), European or American tortoises, and corn snakes (an American snake).

To keep a native Australian turtle as a pet, you will need to acquire a licence from the state or territory wildlife authority. The specific licence requirements vary across Australia, so it is important to check the regulations in your state or territory.

In New South Wales, for example, native reptiles are protected by law, and specific licences are required depending on the type of reptile and the number of reptiles you wish to keep. In Queensland, a recreation wildlife licence is necessary, depending on the type of wildlife, and strict conditions apply regarding breeding, selling, or giving away wildlife.

Victoria has four licence types to accommodate the variety of wildlife that can be kept, and some species, such as the spotted grass frog or the Eastern blue-tongued lizard, can be kept without a permit. In South Australia, a permit is required to keep any native animal in captivity, and similar regulations are in place in the Australian Capital Territory, Western Australia, the Northern Territory, and Tasmania, with some species-specific exemptions.

It is important to note that reptiles must be acquired from a licensed keeper or supplier only, and in some states, photographic identification is required from the seller. Additionally, it is illegal to export Australian reptiles overseas or into Tasmania.

Frequently asked questions